Abstract
The aim of this study is to elaborate a survey on the efficiency of three anti-aging cosmetic formulations by applying Fourier
Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) with Attenuated Total Reflection (ATR) in order to characterize and identify the
specific recognition markers of the active ingredients. FTIR (ATR) spectrometry in specific regions was applied also to the
ingredients used in these products, depending on their role in the specific cream. Comparing the different composition of the
creams, depending on the ratio of lipophylic to hydrophylic ingredients, of emollient-emulsifier type ingredients, antioxidant and
active ingredients, it has been noticed identification of differences between the natural (α-tocopherol acetate) and the synthetic
antioxidant (BHA) by characteristic markers.
The antioxidant potential of α-tocopherol acetate and of BHA, usually used in cosmetic formulations or added in a controlled
way, at known levels of concentration in a standard cream, were evaluated by the DPPH method. Their antioxidant effect could
not be demonstrated in our experiments with controlled concentrations (below 1% and even higher), added to complex mixtures
with lipids. Higher sensibility methods, like electronic spin resonance (ESR) could probably deliver additional information about
the antioxidant potential of some complex mixtures, like anti-aging creams.